Hoisinfully delicious!

2 June 2003—I used to say that most foods could be improved with either chocolate or barbeque sauce, one or the other, depending on which food. Now, many, many foods are pretty freakin’ good on their own. Grapes, for example. Not much you can do to improve a seedless red grape when it’s in season. Don’t even get me started about avocadoes. But still, I felt, chocolate or barbeque sauce could take pretty much everything else to the next level.

Strawberries by themselves? Lovely. Strawberries with chocolate? Utter magic. Grilled vegetables? Yum. Grilled vegetables with barbeque sauce? You know it!

A few years ago, however, I came to the realization that I had been extremely limited in my assessment. I now know the true rule:

Most foods can be improved with either chocolate, barbeque sauce, or hoisin sauce.

I came upon this essential piece of wisdom a few years ago when looking for a good recipe for barbequed ribs. I searched on Epicurious, which is full of great recipes (or at least recipes containing great ideas that can be applied elsewhere), and stumbled onto the recipe I’m about to share with you.

The first time I made these ribs, I did it on the grill rather than broiling them as instructed. They came out great, as long as you can maintain a hot side and a medium-hot side on your grill. But the broiled version, which I’ve done several times since, is just as good.

Three notes: the original recipe calls for country-style pork ribs, but I love baby-backs, so that’s what I make. Also, not all hoisin sauces are created equal. Until I learn to make my own, I’m buying Koon Chun hoisin, and I recommend you do the same. If you have a 99 Ranch or smaller Chinese grocery near you, you can probably find it there. If you’re in the Bay Area, you can definitely get it at Berkeley Bowl. Finally, if you’re unaccustomed to broiling, as I generally am, keep an eye on them, ’cause they will burn. A little burning is OK, but no one likes completely burned ribs. (Although I hear chocolate can improve those.)

Anyway, it’s an easy recipe that requires little more than an hour’s work total. If you’re having or going to a non-vegetarian barbeque this summer, these ribs will be the hit of the party, guaranteed.

Hoisin Baby-Back Ribs
from Epicurious

Serves four. Doubles without a whole lot of effort, except cutting through the raw racks of ribs. Make sure your knife is heavy and sharp. Get the ribs from a good butcher, by the way. Hey, maybe the butcher will even cut up the ribs for you. Score!

1/2 cup (generous) hoisin sauce
1/4 cup honey
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
3 medium garlic cloves, pressed
2 1/2 pounds country-style pork loin ribs, cut into individual ribs
2 tablespoons sesame seeds

Combine first 5 ingredients in medium bowl. Transfer to large shallow dish. Add ribs to marinade; turn to coat all sides. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat broiler. Line baking sheet with foil. Arrange ribs bone side down on foil. Transfer marinade to heavy small saucepan and boil until very thick, about 7 minutes. Brush ribs with marinade. Broil 4 minutes. Turn and baste ribs generously; broil another 4 minutes. Turn again and baste. Sprinkle ribs with sesame seeds and broil until seeds are golden brown, about 1 minute.Reduce oven temperature to 350°F. Bake ribs until cooked through, about 20 minutes. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Reheat in 350°F. oven for 20 minutes.)

Transfer to platter and serve.