The potluckiest.

13 July 2002–There’s a restaurant about ten minutes away from here called the Red Tractor. It’s the cutest little place, kind of like going over to someone’s farmhouse, minimally decorated with simple wooden tables and chairs, and featuring a counter for two people to sit at that separates one room from another, making it seem like you’re kind of looking out on the back porch. That actually reminds me of a great soul food place in Marina del Rey called Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch, where they serve lemonade in jars, but that’s another thing altogether.

No, what I want to talk about is the Red Tractor’s biscuits. The first time I had one, it was like an epiphany. They’re buttermilk cheddar drop biscuits, with chopped scallions sprinkled throughout.

Eventually I learned how to make them. Well, I learned how to make a variation on them that I actually like better. In retrospect, the actual Red Tractor biscuits are perhaps more buttery than they need be. I suspect they brush melted butter on them just before baking, which makes them a bit more oily than necessary, but it does give them a bit deeper color, which is attractive. The recipe I use features sauteed onions rather than raw scallions. The sauteed onions add a sweetness and a little crunch that balances the other flavors.

Anyway, here is the recipe I use, which I adapted from the Bread Alone cookbook, in all other aspects a downright persnickety bread book I wouldn’t recommend to anyone but the most anal-retentive, but the savory drop biscuits are just on the other side of simplicity, and you can make them in an hour. It’s almost too easy.

I know I’m eating a bit more strictly these days, but that doesn’t mean everyone else should suffer. The next time you’re going to a potluck barbecue, bring these. If they aren’t the absolute hit of the barbecue, um, well, send me the recipe of what beats them.

Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits

Makes 15 biscuits. The recipe doubles very nicely, adding minimal time and effort. Tripling is somewhat ambitious, though. I did it once. Once.

6 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, chopped finely
2 cups unbleached white flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 cup chilled lowfat buttermilk

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Minimally grease a cookie sheet or jelly roll pan.

Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a saute pan. Saute the onion until lightly golden, about 5-7 minutes. Drain in a strainer to cool.

Cut the rest of the butter into 1/2-inch cubes and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the cubes of butter and cut the butter into the flour mixture using a pastry cutter until the mixture is coarse and there are no more discernible pieces of butter. When done right it will feel like slightly moist, fluffy bread crumbs.

Add the cheese and onion to the mixture and mix thoroughly.

Add the buttermilk about 1/4 cup at a time. You’ll probably end up using the whole cup, but what you’re going for is a slightly moist, sticky blob. The whole mixture should be incorporated so that there are no dry ingredients left.

With your fingers, grab a clump about an inch and a half or so and drop it on your cookie sheet, leaving about two inches between biscuits. You should be able to get fifteen biscuits out of this recipe.

Bake for approximately 15 minutes. If you’re doubling the recipe, switch the positions of each sheet and flip them around after about seven minutes. Keep an eye on them, as there is a short window between done and overdone. The top should be slightly tanned, and the bottom should be a nice golden brown. Don’t worry if the onions get a tiny bit charred as they poke out on top. Cool on a wire rack.

Variations:

I’ve tried half butter, half shortening, and I’m a little undecided about it. It may be better; it may not make a difference. Try it and let me know what you think.

I would suggest a medium or sharp cheddar. Particularly depending on the cheese, mild may not make an impact.

Try adding about 1/4 cup of finely shredded Parmigiano Reggiano for a little extra kick.

As noted, you could try substituting a cup of chopped scallions for the sauteed onion. You can also try brushing the biscuits with butter before baking to add color. I haven’t done it, but I might try it next time.